Gyeongbukgung (meaning "Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven") is one of five palaces in Seoul, built on the order of Chosen dynasty rulers hundreds of years ago. Its passed through several life cycles over its history, having been burnt down during a Japanese invasion in 1592, rebuilt in 1867, burned again in 1876, reconstructed once more in 1888, and partially dismantled by the Japanese in 1915. In 1990, South Korea began restoration efforts anew, removing the colonial Government-General building in its main court as a symbol of colonial occupation and reconstructing several of the important buildings. In some, the wood was still new enough that its smell lingered in the air; in others, structures hundreds of years old still stood proudly.
We dodged Japanese tour groups and walked the same elevated path kings would take through the massive courtyards up to Geunjeongjeon, the main throne hall. Stone pillars lined each side of the walkway, marking the positions of military and civil ministers who stood to greet arriving royalty. Behind the throne hall stood several other buildings, housing family members and servants, hosting banquets, and providing storage space for provisions meant to last through harsh Korean winters. Our videographer made up functions for the less-obvious buildings. "That's a really big washroom. That's where they kept an army of horses. That's a bedroom for midgets." Some were more believable than others, but after we passed by a large display of short stone men, I wasn't so sure.
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